Basically there are two reasons to make an HDR High Dynamic Range photograph: necessity and creativity—and because those reasons often overlap, you'll get great photos and be able to add your own personal touches along the way. The "necessary" reason for making an HDR image is due to the fact that our eyes can perceive an extraordinary range of contrast in a scene, a range far greater than any camera's sensor can capture.
We see into a scene's brightly lit areas, and we can also tell what's going on in the shadows. The camera is going to have trouble capturing the ends of that drastic range. If you choose to meter for the highlights the bright areas , you'll lose pretty much all the detail in the shadow areas of the scene.
Try it the other way—meter for the shadows—and it's likely you'll end up with what are commonly called "blown out" highlights. A familiar example of that: a well-exposed room interior in which the windows are blazing with light. If you expose to capture what's outside those windows, the room's details are going to be lost in shadow. And when you shoot outdoors, the sunlight that creates bright highlights will also create dark shadows; expose for one and you lose detail in the other.
But when you make an HDR image, what you see is what you're going to get because an HDR photograph results when you take a series of exposures—commonly called a bracket—to capture both highlights and shadow detail. We talked recently with nature photographer Tony Sweet about the techniques he uses to create HDR images in both outdoor and indoor situations. First, his camera is always on a tripod to insure that the images he's going to take don't vary in composition, and that every shot is as sharp as it can be.
Then he sets his Nikon D-SLR for aperture priority operation—meaning that the aperture he chooses will not vary from shot to shot. Tony usually makes a five-shot bracket, though three- and seven-shot brackets are also common in HDR photography. The choice often depends on the range and severity of the scene's contrast. The process for capturing HDR photos on your smartphone is almost identical to capturing them on a dedicated camera — a series of images are captured at varying exposures to ensure the greatest possible dynamic range in a scene.
The big difference is that capturing HDR photos on a smartphone is far less complicated, thanks to software. Rather than capturing three separate images at different exposures, overlaying them, and merging them together for the best tonal range, your smartphone will do all of this for you — and likely with a single click.
The only thing you should have to do, besides pressing the shutter, is make sure the HDR mode on your phone is enabled. Apple devices will have three distinct HDR options that can be used with any of the still image modes: On, Auto, and Off.
In iOS 11 and later, however, you only have Auto and Off. When shooting in this camera mode, your Android device will capture multiple exposures in a quick sequence and automatically stitch them together to create a final HDR photo. Now, thanks to increasingly capable video cameras and compatible TV sets , HDR video capture is possible as well. Rather than capturing multiple images and merging them together, either in-camera or via post-production, HDR video is more often than not captured as a single exposure.
Step 4 : Wait. If you have a lot of HDR images to merge, this process can take a long time depending on your hardware. But for now, if you have an older, or cheaper PC, this process could take a long time. Apply a preset to increase the contrast. HDR images start out pretty flat because they have a lot of details in both the highlights and shadows. Presets are one of the most powerful tools at your disposal to make sure you have a clean and cohesive editing style throughout your portfolio of work.
That cohesion in editing is what makes a photo one that could only ever have been taken by you. The main reason that I make High Dynamic Range images is so that I can keep detail and saturation in the bright parts of the image.
It can be tempting to bring down the highlights, brighten up the shadows and leave it at that. The best advice I can give is to always make sure there are defined black and white points in every image.
So if you bring up the shadows, bring down the blacks to keep that contrast strong. This gives definition to a photograph. The natural contrast will help the viewer see the image as a real scene, rather than a doctored image. But the editing process is subjective.
Take the middle exposure image from the previous stack, and compare what happens to each image as you move the sliders. There can be a few issues with HDR imagery. Have you tried HDR? Please share your comments and HDR images below. Darlene is an educator who teaches aspiring amateurs and hobbyists how to improve their skills through her articles here on Digital Photo Mentor, her beginner photography course , and private tutoring lessons. To help you at whatever level you're at she has two email mini-courses.
Sign up for her free beginner OR portrait photography email mini-course. Or get both, no charge! Yes, you can learn to take better photos! Enroll in our free photography basics for beginners course, or part portrait photography course , also free. Share Tweet 4. Pin You camera simply cannot capture detail at both ends of the tonal range in such a high contrast scene.
Get more info or sign up to the waiting list here. Offer ends November 21st at EST! Digital Photo Mentor is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to products on Amazon.
0コメント