Also, there is an order to the method too. Someone my like to correct me From memory, the first skirt to go in should be the one furthest from the doorway - this will have 90 degree cuts at each end. The board that abut to it will be scribed at that end and 90 degree at the other.
The idea, I understand, is that any gap in the scribe is not evident when entering the room. If the walls are long or longer than the skirting boards , the intermediate joints are overlapping 45 degree cuts.
Again, the idea is to allow movement, but not make it too obvious. There is no middle ground between facts and fallacies - argumentum ad temperantiam. You always put the first board opposite the doorway and go from there.
Bugger all chippies do it theses days because they are dodgy, pushed for time and the painter will fix it. It gets pretty tricky doing scribes with boring skirts like bevels or bullnose but its still worthwhile. Originally Posted by ringtail. Sorry, I should have chose my words better. Its a challenge because you end up with the smallest wafer of timber at the top that it almost impossible to cut. Sometimes you need to a razor blade or a dremel, unlike a six inch skirt that has meat all the way.
Thanks for that guys! So do generally just use a jigsaw or is there an easier method? Then, the 2nd piece ends up having the traced surface removed, following the same shape. The result? Both parts fit like pieces of a puzzle. It also allows for more flexible joints that can resist changes in the materials. As most experts recommend, it's best practice to use this method for internal corners and the mitre method for external edges -eg: let's say you have a chimney.
The level of detail of the next step will depend on how intricate the design of your skirting boards' profile is. In most cases though, you'll need to use a coping saw, which is the tool created specifically to create scribe joints! If you are already quite handy in using tools, you could try and replace the hand saw and the coping saw with a jigsaw. Make sure to utilise a downward cutting blade that has between 10 to TPI tooth per inch for re-creating the curves of the skirting board's profile.
Finish the rest off with a coping saw that has a fine blade. When coping intricate baseboard trim, it's sometimes difficult to remove the waste so to make this easier cut at an angle, taking more timber out of the back of the board where it won't be seen.
By doing this you ensure it doesn't get in the way of the face edges touching if the wall is very slightly out of square.
Finally sand off any pencil lines and,. Again, as above cut one board tight into the corner, using a bevel to determine the angle and fix it firmly in place. I fix it at this stage otherwise you could scribe into a board that's going to move when you fix it. To scribe the next one into it, the first thing to do is bisect the angle of the walls that the skirting will be fitted to. I do this every time, in case it isn't exactly Click here for more help bisecting angles.
Next, grab another piece long enough and cut the angle but as with when cutting a normal 45 degree corner, only cut through the mouldings profile, down to where the board becomes flat. I use a combination square to mark a line on the face of the board from the end of that cut on the profile down to the bottom of the board. This will help to guide the next cut correctly you can use a compass to scribe skirting board like the normal corner above if the first one is cupped.
Turn the skirting board upside down and set the saw to the original angle, that the first board was cut to but in the opposite direction.
This time I cut down through the flat face of the board taking the back of the board out at an angle.
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