The jewellery worn in medieval Europe reflected an intensely hierarchical and status-conscious society. Royalty and the nobility wore gold, silver and precious gems. Lower ranks of society wore base metals, such as copper or pewter. Colour provided by precious gems and enamel and protective power were highly valued.
Some jewels have cryptic or magical inscriptions, believed to protect the wearer. Until the late 14th century, gems were usually polished rather than cut.
Size and lustrous colour determined their value. Enamels - ground glasses fired at high temperature onto a metal surface - allowed goldsmiths to colour their designs on jewellery. They used a range of techniques to create effects that are still widely used today. The images decorating the back of this cross were often used as a focus for meditation in the late medieval period.
The scenes on the lid show the Instruments of the Passion - scourge, whip, lance, sponge and nails - which were used during the Crucifixion. Pearls symbolised purity, and the red gems may have symbolised sacrificial blood shed by Christ. Renaissance jewels shared the age's passion for splendour. Enamels, often covering both sides of the jewel, became more elaborate and colourful and advances in cutting techniques increased the glitter of stones.
The enormous importance of religion in everyday life could be seen in jewellery, as could earthly power - many spectacular pieces were worn as a display of political strength. The designs reflect the new-found interest in the classical world, with mythological figures and scenes becoming popular. The ancient art of gem engraving was revived and the use of portraits reflected another cultural trend - an increased artistic awareness of the individual.
Particular types of stone were thought to protect against specific ailments or threats, ranging from toothache to the evil eye. They could also encourage or banish such characteristics as bravery or melancholy. This scorpion etching dates from the 2nd or 1st century BC but has been reused in a medieval ring. Carved Greek or Roman stones were highly valued in the middle ages. They were found in excavations or in surviving earlier pieces of jewellery and traded across Europe.
The scorpion had an enduring reputation as a protective amulet. It was believed to heal patients from poisoning and also, as symbol of the Zodiac sign Scorpio, it was associated with water and therefore believed to have a cooling effect on fever. Remedies against poisoning were also made by infusing scorpions in oil and herbs. By the midth century, changes in fashion had introduced new styles of jewellery. While dark fabrics required elaborate gold jewellery, the new softer pastel shades became graceful backdrops for gemstones and pearls.
Expanding global trade made gemstones ever more available. Advances in cutting techniques increased the sparkle of gemstones in candlelight. The most impressive jewels were often large bodice or breast ornaments, which had to be pinned or stitched to stiff dress fabrics. The swirling foliate decoration of the jewels shows new enthusiasm for bow motifs and botanical ornaments. The central bow in this necklace is a magnificent example of a midth century jewel.
This striking colour combination was frequently used in enamels around this date. The end of the previous century had seen the development of the brilliant-cut with its multiple facets. Diamonds sparkled as never before and came to dominate jewellery design. Frequently mounted in silver to enhance the stone's white colour, magnificent sets of diamond jewels were essential for court life.
The largest were worn on the bodice, while smaller ornaments could be scattered over an outfit. With unique motifs and designs, jewelry from this era continues to inspire present day styles.
Known also as the Middle Ages or Dark Ages, the Medieval era began with the fall of the Roman Empire and extended until the beginning of the Renaissance. This period stretched for a thousand years, and was viewed as the period between antiquity and the modern world.
Most pieces of fine jewelry became limited to royalty, aristocracy, nobility, and clergy at the beginning of the medieval period. Jewelry became an indicator of rank, wealth and status, and ones were condemned for wearing ornaments that were not proper to their status. In fact, sumptuary laws were established for the importance of jewels as symbols of rank.
Even wealthy people who afford to wear gold jewelry and precious gems were banned from wearing them. Brooches, bracelets and rings also served as a sort of currency or collateral. Though the economic value of gemstones changed over time, the bigger the stone the greater was its value. As styles changed and pieces switched hands, jewelry designs were altered to reflect the current fashion and tastes of the new owner.
Also, medieval rings were worn with a purpose of signifying rank, and some were believed to have protective powers and magical inscriptions. While the types and styles of Medieval jewelry were wide ranging, there were common characteristics that united these pieces.
Medieval inspired pendant with cathedral motif by Shimmer Creek Silver. Check price here. Goldsmiths worked with gold as the most precious metal in jewelry, while silver became a metal alternative for lower classes.
In fact, most gold used in jewelry production was recycled from ancient coins and other gold pieces. Cabochon resin pendant. See it here. In the late 14th century, precious stones were usually polished in a convex shape rather than faceted. These were called cabochon stones. Diamonds were less commonly used in the early Middle Ages, but emeralds, sapphires, rubies, turquoises, pearls, corals, freshwater pearls, and amber were common. As gemstone cutting technology evolved, faceted, cut stones became more available.
Medieval inspired knuckle ring by Vintique Pastimes. At the beginning of the 13th century, the openwork patterns of gothic cathedrals and castles was used as inspiration for medieval jewelry. Jewelers began working with angled designs rather rounded forms, while incorporating more elegant proportions and beautiful metalwork into their style.
In the late "Middle Ages", it was believed that painters supplied goldsmiths with designs for jewelry, which explains the elaborate and architectural styles often seen in Medieval jewelry. Brooches were usually circular or of some other type of centrally symmetrical shape.
Ring brooches were universal in the thirteenth century. In the fourteenth century, also cluster brooches and wheel brooches came into fashion. After Ronald W.
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